To a romantic, Casablanca is a mythical place that exists in
a dream inspired by the 1942 film starring Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart.
The reality is that the movie Casablanca was actually filmed on a soundstage in
Hollywood and the real Casablanca is often overlooked by tourists who gravitate
to the souks of Marrakech and Fez or the exotic beaches of Essaouira and
Tangier.
Casablanca is a city
for travelers who like to feel like a local, rather than a tourist, and who
want to experience the present as well as learn about the past. The enormity of
Casablanca, Morocco's most populous city, means visitors have to make an effort
to discover its hidden details. Once you get beneath the surface, you’ll see
that Casablanca’s mix of grit and style feels a lot like Los Angeles. Here’s
why it’s worth a visit.
1.
Casablanca is a hotbed of fascinating
architecture.
Architecture buffs will geek out on the
city’s diverse building styles, from Art Deco to radically modern. To truly
understand the stories behind the city’s great buildings, join an architectural
tour with Casamémoire, a nonprofit preservation organization working to have
parts of the city designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Hassan II
Mosque, the largest mosque in Morocco, is a testament to incredible
craftsmanship. It took more than seven years and as many as 10,000 artisans to
complete the intricate masterpiece. The palm-lined Boulevard Mohammed V, in the
heart of old Casablanca, is a reminder of the French influence on the city. One
of the finest examples of Art Deco design, Cinéma Rialto, lies just off the
main drag. Mahkama du Pacha, located in the Habous neighborhood and built in
the early 1950s, is a Moroccan architecture and craftsmanship gem. Église du
Sacré-Couer, a desacralized cathedral built in the ’30s, now hosts concerts and
art exhibitions and is a striking mix of Gothic and Art Deco style, while
Église Notre Dame de Lourdes, built in the ’50s, is a beautiful example of
Brutalist architecture with stunning stained glass panels inside.
2.
The city has a serious arts and culture scene.
Many of Casablanca’s historic Art Deco
villas have been reborn as galleries and museums. Recently, the neon Pop Art of
graffiti artist Ramzi Adek was on display at La Villa des Arts. The ’30s Art
Deco villa was renovated by Casamémoire president Rachid Andaloussi and now
hosts permanent and temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. A ’40s Art Deco
villa on the central Rue du Parc was transformed to showcase the extensive
private collection of art-loving Moroccan businessman Abderrahman Slaoui.
During his travels throughout Morocco, he collected everything from Bohemian
glass and vintage jewelry, all now on display in Le Musée de la Fondation
Abderrahman Slaoui. In 2012, the city’s old industrial slaughterhouse was
reimagined as La Fabrique Culturelle des Anciens Abattoirs de Casablanca, a hub
for of-the-moment street art exhibitions and urban dance and music events.
3.
Casablanca is a great restaurant city.
Unlike Marrakech, Casablanca has a buzzy
restaurant scene fueled by both locals and visitors. La Corniche, the city’s
waterfront boulevard, lined with umbrella-shaded beach cafés, chic lounges, and
ocean-view restaurants, wouldn’t seem out of place on the French Riviera.
Unparalleled Atlantic views and a stylish crowd have made Le Cabestan the
reservation to score on La Corniche, dating back to 1927, when the chic French
restaurant first opened its doors. A 2011 renovation has kept the scene
relevant, but the old standby now has competition from Bleu. Located just down
La Corniche, the Four Seasons’s fifth-floor Mediterranean restaurant has become
an instant hot spot thanks to its oceanfront views, outdoor terrace and fire
pit, and smart nautical-inspired decor, including a striking mural of thousands
of ceramic mussel shells created by Canadian design studio Moss & Lam. A
raw bar showcases Dakhla oysters, prawns, and the day’s catch and diners can
watch chefs cook behind a large custom grill in the center of the dining room.
The barmen’s complex mocktails, infused with teas and made theatrical with dry
ice, make up for the lack of booze (the restaurant’s liquor license is still
pending).
After working at legendary Parisian restaurant Le Fouquet’s,
Taki Kabbaj moved to Casablanca and bought Le Rouget de L’Isle. His menus of
French classics pair perfectly with the restaurant’s romantic setting in an
art-filled ’30s villa and its garden. La Sqala Café Maure is another of the
city’s prettiest garden settings. Hidden behind the ocher walls and Majorelle
blue doors of an 18th-century fortress at the edge of the old medina, Café Maure’s
tranquil setting and menu of traditional Moroccan tagines and fresh juices make
it a popular brunch spot. If you’re looking to splurge on a romantic meal, book
a table at F.Kabbaj, a French restaurant in the Racine area specializing in
locally farm-raised foie gras.
4.
You can have a great meal at a tourist trap.
Tourists, particularly Americans, can’t
resist dining at Rick’s Café, not because of the food, but because of the
sultry atmosphere inspired by the bar made famous in the iconic film. American
owner Kathy Kriger got all the details right, from the mosaic-tiled floors and
arched doorways to the piano man who taps out Sinatra tunes. The culinary
experience was recently elevated thanks to a collaboration with chefs from the
Four Seasons: Diners who book the Taste of Place get a private tour of the
restaurant with Kriger followed by a four-course wine-paired meal that
highlights the freshest local ingredients.
5.
You can have a farm-to-table experience.
After years working in Miami’s nightlife
business, Asmaa Benmaazouz returned home to her family farm just outside of
Casablanca and turned it into a working dairy farm. La Ferme de Bousko welcomes
guests for farm tours and cheese tastings. Weekend programs are perfect for
families and give kids the chance to milk goats while parents learn about
composting. Benmaazouz studied cheese-making in France and her cows and goats
provide milk for the half-dozen cheeses she makes and sells to local
restaurants and grocers. Guests are welcome to bring their own wine for a
paired tasting.
6.
You can practice at Morocco’s only Bikram
Studio.
Tucked away in a residential section of Casablanca’s Anfa
neighborhood, Om Yoga is the first and only yoga studio in Morocco to offer
Bikram classes. Owner Nabil Scally opened the stylish, palm-shaded space in
2013 and has expanded its offerings to include power, aerial, yin, vinyasa, and
hatha yoga as well as TRX classes. His daughter, Camila Harris, is one of his
top teachers and she effortlessly flows between French and English instruction.
In addition to daily classes, Om offers weeklong retreats.
7.
There’s a legitimate surf culture.
Casablanca’s beach scene is reminiscent of
Venice Beach, a bit gritty and surf-crazed. Surf schools line La Corniche,
ladies paddle out in burkinis, and each September pros from around the globe
descend here to compete in the Quiksilver Pro surf competition. The neighboring
little beach town of Dar Bouazza feels more like Santa Monica with its fancy
houses and café-lined streets. The talented instructors from Ain Diab Surf
School will take you surfing at the best breaks here. After your surf session,
stop by Kai Shapes, a funky surfboard company run by an American shaper.